A Gloucestershire photographer has fulfilled a lifelong dream by travelling thousands of miles to one of the world’s most remote wildernesses to capture dramatic images of giant brown bears feasting on salmon during Alaska’s famous annual salmon run.
Paul Nicholls swapped photographing royalty, prime ministers and celebrities for one of nature’s greatest spectacles, spending three unforgettable days at Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park and Preserve during the peak of the July salmon run.
The annual event sees millions of Sockeye salmon battle powerful river currents as they return from the ocean to the freshwater streams where they were born to spawn, creating a feeding frenzy for the park’s iconic brown bears.
The journey itself was an adventure. Paul travelled from London to Seattle before flying to Anchorage, then onwards to the tiny Alaskan settlement of King Salmon. From there, he boarded a float plane for the final 25-minute journey into Brooks Falls – a place with no road access and where visitors are very much entering the bears’ world.
Before even seeing a bear, every visitor must attend ‘Bear School’, learning strict safety rules designed to protect both people and wildlife.
“I was putting up my tent when I had my very first bear sighting,” said Paul. “My first impression was just how massive they are.”
Visitors are required to stay at least 50 yards from bears, step off trails if a bear approaches, and never carry food outside designated areas to avoid attracting curious wildlife.
Paul joined the expedition with specialist wildlife adventure company Backcountry Journeys, guided by experienced wildlife experts Tiffany Taxis and Jon Kuiper.
Timing the visit perfectly, the group arrived during the height of the salmon run. “On our first visit to Brooks Falls we counted around 30 bears all fishing and catching salmon,” added Paul.
“It was breathtaking, stunning, superb, life-changing and probably one of the best things I have done in my 42-year career as a photographer.”
Unlike many visitors who only spend a few hours at Brooks Falls, Paul chose to camp for three nights behind an electric bear-proof fence, giving him early morning and late evening access to photograph the bears in changing light.
Although not a keen camper, he says it was the perfect choice: “There is no Wi-Fi, no phone signal and no email. You are completely isolated from the world and I loved it.
“When you walk through the gates onto the boardwalk overlooking the river, it genuinely feels like you’re entering Jurassic Park.”
During guided walks through the forest, Paul watched wild bears catching salmon from only a safe distance away.
“The golden rule is simple,” he said. “If a bear comes within 50 yards, you retreat – but you do not run.”
Having spent decades planning the trip, Paul believes the experience was worth every mile travelled.
“I have wanted to do this trip for decades and it is completely different from my day-to-day photography. As far as I could tell, I was the only Brit there. Everyone else in my group had travelled from different parts of the USA.
“The park is beautiful and the bears are incredible to observe. I thoroughly recommend this trip – it’s one of the true marvels of the natural world.
“Back to reality and jet-lagged, I came home to yet another new Prime Minister. The world kept spinning, and I was more than happy to step off it for three amazing days.”
Paul’s wildlife images from Alaska, along with examples of his other photography, can be viewed via Paul Nicholls Photography.
