It’s tough being me sometimes. When my Editor Ash asked if I’d like to review the new menu ‘SAUCE’ at ‘The Painswick’ for Stroud Times, I leapt at the chance!
Just to be clear, ‘The Painswick’ boutique hotel, part of the Calcot Collection, is situated in the town of Painswick near Stroud. One of my Gloucestershire friends asked me where it was, so I thought best not to assume everybody knows! I’ve done a quick search on-line, but this is definitely the only ‘The Painswick’ in Gloucestershire… as far as I know.
‘The Painswick’ is an attractive Cotswold stone building, tucked away down a couple of narrow streets off the main road. It was a beautiful, sunny Friday evening when my husband Lee and I visited. Everywhere always looks better in the sunshine, but Painswick especially.
Nestled in the heart of the ‘Queen of the Cotswolds,’ The Painswick has long been a go-to for design-savvy travellers, laid-back luxury lovers and foodies in the know. Now, the boutique hotel is proud to unveil the next step in its evolution: SAUCE, the brand-new name for its much-loved restaurant, complete with an exciting new menu of sharing plates, feasting boards and elevated small plates.
Still led by long-time Head Chef Jamie McCallum, SAUCE marks a fresh yet familiar era for The Painswick’s dining experience. One that brings flavour, flair and flexibility to the forefront.
“We wanted to keep everything people love about dining at The Painswick – the charm, the creativity, the incredible produce, but give it a new buzz,” says McCallum. “SAUCE is all about accessibility and atmosphere. Come for a cocktail and a few dishes with friends or settle in for the night with our seasonal feasting boards. It’s informal fine dining with heart.”
McCallum, originally from Glasgow and now a long-time Cheltenham local, has been a part of The Painswick family for over seven years. His impressive CV includes high-pressure stints cooking for the likes of Raymond Blanc, Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing but it’s his down-to-earth approach and genuine love for great ingredients that defines SAUCE’s identity.
The menu reflects a shift in the way people want to dine – less about formality, more about flavour, sociability and seasonality. Diners can expect dishes like BBQ monkfish with curry sauce, charred greens with romesco, and Walter Rose rib of beef – all made with exceptional local produce and McCallum’s signature, unfussy finesse.
“It’s food that’s been thought about, but not over-thought,” says McCallum. “We want guests to relax, have fun with the menu, and just enjoy really great cooking in a beautiful setting.”
With all eyes on Stroud, the village of Painswick is quietly and confidently having a moment. Long considered an undiscovered gem of the Cotswolds, it’s fast becoming the place to see and be seen. From boutique stays to bold new restaurant openings like SAUCE, the village is carving out a reputation as the stylish insider’s choice.
We were warmly greeted by General Manager Leah and her team, and whisked upstairs to a theatrical- looking cocktail bar and showed the drinks menu. We sat on a balcony overlooking the hotel’s pretty gardens, and to our left, the Slad Valley, and we were quickly reminded why millions of tourists visit The Cotswolds each year.
What we ate and drank
I’m not a huge fan of cocktails, but I had my arm twisted by the sound of ‘Rocco Garden’, named after one of Painswick’s local attractions. I knew I was on to a winner when Leah, who was taking our drinks order, said, ‘Good choice!’.
The cocktail contains Gin, Raspberries, Chambord (Raspberry Liqueur), Rosemary and Lime. It was as delicious as it sounds. I am naturally a real ale drinker, and so I had a quick peek at the beer and cider menu and was pleased to see a couple of local beers available. Just to say, there is an impressive choice of mocktails on the menu too.
Our meal order was taken and within 15 minutes we were shown to our table in the restaurant. As we moved through the hotel, it was so lovely to see every corner of the hotel inhabited- outside and in; a few ladies enjoying fizz on the terrace; families sitting in the snug in front of an open fire, and a handful of couples seated in the cocktail bar. It made for a pleasant atmosphere.
The restaurant felt Cotswoldy and relaxed, but not pretentious or over-the-top. Maybe it’s just me, but I never enjoy my meal if I feel like everyone’s on their best behaviour!
I am the least fussy person when it comes to food, so I could have quite easily eaten everything off Head Chef Jamie McCallum’s menu.
I liked the menu’s simplicity, and the fact there wasn’t a huge choice, was a good thing in my book. I’m a big fan of doing a few things, and doing them well.
I wholly approve of little touches like pre-meal ‘Snacks’ on the menu. Lee and I couldn’t resist the Cheddar & Jalapeno Croquetas (vegan), and the Pork Crackling & Spiced Apple Ketchup. They didn’t last long!
Lee skipped starters and I ordered Devonshire Crab on Toast with Blood Orange. The crab was so delicate and sweet, and tasted divine partnered with the orange.
And for the main event…Lee ordered Roasted Cauliflower, Romesco Sauce, Gnocchi Parisienne & Hazelnut Crumble (Vegan) and I ordered Lamb, Aubergine & Fennel.
As I was having the lamb, I asked the waiter to recommend a red wine to compliment the meal. He did, and it did! I’m not a wine connoisseur by any stretch, but the menu looked fabulous. You can order most things by the glass, or the bottle.
The final course and choice was tricky, because I love a cheeseboard, which was on the menu. Selflessly I thought, “What would the readers order?”, so I finished off with the most enormous and perfectly caramelized Apple Tarte Tatin served with Creme Fraiche. Guess what? I ate the lot! It was exquisite.
Lee and I had a really super evening. The service was attentive, friendly and warm. We felt truly spoiled and although ‘The Painswick’ felt decadent, compared to prices in a nearby Cheltenham restaurant we’d recently frequented, I thought it seemed fairly competitive. It was a real treat and Lee and I were already talking about the next time we’d visit ‘The Painswick’ and who we’d take, which I think speaks for itself.
Top tip: Parking on site is very tight, so if you’re travelling by car, there’s free parking on Stamages Lane.
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