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The Nook On Five: ‘One of those places where you felt hedonistic and indulgent’ – restaurant review

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Some say you should never meet your heroes, and on the odd occasion they are absolutely right, but our night of food bliss was elevated to a different stratosphere when we learned, who was behind our gastronomic seventh heaven.

Make no mistakes The Nook On Five managing director and owner Edward Surman pulled off a masterstroke when recruiting multi Michelin-starred chef, author and TV personality, John Burton-Race – you may recall him from ITV’s I’m a Celebrity… Get Me Out of Here, where he clashed with Janice Dickinson over her dislike of exotic meat in 2007. He also starred in his Channel 4 series French Leave, its sequel Return of the Chef.

John Burton-Race, Executive Head Chef at The Nook On Five

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With a career spanning 35 years, John has worked in some of the UK’s best restaurants, including Raymond Blanc’s two Michelin star Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.

The Nook’s menu, under John’s steer, boasts fresh twists on its modern British classics, as well as introducing new dishes and seasonal specials.

Officially opened as the town’s first rooftop restaurant and bar in November 2022, The Nook on Five is situated in the Quadrangle building in Cheltenham town centre and boasts good views over Imperial Gardens and Montpellier. 

Before all of the above, we made the short journey from Stroud. Champing at the bit for the evening ahead, my partner scrolled through the menu as we passed through Painswick. Such was our excitement, our minds were made up even before we rocked up at our destination.

It was a divine evening and we felt hedonistic and indulgent as we popped to the bar and ordered our drinks before making our way to the sun-kissed rooftop terrace. I opted for a G & T with slimline tonic. No surprises, my partner ordered her go-to margarita.

Ed Surman | The Nook On Five: ‘One of those places where you felt hedonistic and indulgent’ – restaurant review
Ed Surman, owner and Commercial Director at The Nook On Five

We were joined by the delightful owner Edward. His passion for The Nook On Five was evident as he briefed us on our night ahead. He left us with the promise of a surprise treat to take back home to Stroud.

What We Devoured

We were escorted to our table for amuse bouche, which is a small, bite-sized hors d’oeuvre, typically offered as a treat before a meal or between courses. It was utterly the best asparagus cream soup I have ever tried.

For her starter my partner opted for courgette flower with crab mousseline, crab bisque, and pink grapefruit gel. I ordered ribeye steak salad, watercress rocket truffle mayonnaise and crispy shallots. The presentation of both these dishes was out of this world. And although daintily à la carte… the portions were more than ample.

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The view from the terrace – perfection

The steak was perfectly cooked and the truffle mayonnaise and shallots elevated its taste, to a heady splendour. My partner, who is a bit of a foodie, gasped with joy at the flower presentation of the courgette divinely filled with crab and rated it as one of the best crab dishes she had ever come across.

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Getting started with the incredible ribeye steak salad

Accompanying our dishes, we had two glasses of ice-cold champagne.

My partner was bowled over with the flawless presentation of the sea bass with squid ink risotto, which came with sides of creamed kale and smoked pancetta and truffle and parmesan fries.

She said the sea bass was perfectly cooked and beautifully complimented with squid ink risotto. I opted for chicken with pommes mousseline, crispy chicken skin and truffle jus, accompanied by the most tender Jersey Royals on the planet.

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The perfect starter – courgette divinely filled with crab

We were more than satisfied and sent our compliments to the chef and this is when our evening took a twist. Out popped the man of the night to warmly greet us. He was charm personified as he talked us through our food.

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Sea bass with squid ink risotto

His face was so familiar and that’s when Google confirmed my thoughts. I discovered our incredible food had indeed been crafted by a legend of the food industry – John Burton-Race.

With his work still to be done, our chef made his way back to his kitchen.

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Chicken with pommes mousseline crispy chicken skin and truffle jus

Lastly, but by no means least, it was dessert time. The custard tart parisienne was a smart choice. Light delicious and ended off this night of wonderful food which I did feel had a certain European feeling.

My partner picked a lemon and raspberry choux bon, which was delicious, and fruity.

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Custard tart parisienne was a smart choice

If you need special food for a special occasion The Nook is definitely the place to go. Or if you want a starter and some cocktails to kick off your evening it can cater for that too!

Delicious à la carte dining, stunningly presented. From fish to meat to surprisingly ample starters. I was hooked from the very first bite.

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Lemon and raspberry choux bon

The Nook is a family run business with fine dining quality; I think that really shines through when you visit, but it’s also evidenced by its reputation and unique rooftop setting.

Finally, Edward sent us home with dainty pastries from the chef – the perfect finale.

For reservations, visit The Nook on Five’s website HERE

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