By Leah, Director & Advanced Skin Specialist at Glowing by Leah
If I had £1 for every time someone walked into the clinic during summer and said…
“Leah, my pigmentation was getting so much better…why has it suddenly come back?”
…I’d probably be writing this blog from a beach somewhere!
The truth is, I completely understand how disheartening it feels.
You’ve invested in your skin, followed your skincare routine and been consistent ( as this is key), had treatments and started feeling confident again. Then the sun comes out, you catch yourself in the mirror one morning and those brown patches seem darker than ever.
It can feel like all your hard work has disappeared overnight.
But here’s what I always tell my patients…
Your skin isn’t failing you. It’s protecting you.
Once you understand why pigmentation develops and what triggers it, everything starts to make sense. More importantly, you realise that pigmentation doesn’t have to control your confidence.
What actually is pigmentation?
Pigmentation is simply the colour of our skin.
Our skin contains specialised cells called melanocytes, which produce a pigment called melanin. Melanin acts as our body’s natural defence against UV damage, helping to protect our skin cells from harmful radiation.
The problem starts when these melanocytes become overstimulated.
That stimulation can come from UV exposure, Hormonal changes, Acne, Inflammation, Skin trauma,Heat, Certain medications and Genetics. When those melanocytes become overactive, they produce excess melanin, creating darker patches within the skin.
Skin health starts much deeper than your skincare routine
One thing I’m incredibly passionate about educating my clients on is that healthy skin starts from within. Inflammation isn’t always visible on the surface.Very often, it begins inside the body. Poor gut health, chronic inflammation, food intolerances, stress, hormonal imbalances and nutritional deficiencies can all contribute to inflammatory processes that eventually show themselves through the skin. When your body is inflamed, your skin often reflects it. This is why treating pigmentation isn’t simply about removing brown patches. It’s about understanding why your skin is reacting the way it is and supporting it from both the inside and the outside.
Your skincare matters, Your treatments matter. But so does your overall health.
Hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation and melasma…what’s the difference?
These three conditions are often confused, but they’re actually very different.
Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation means an increase in pigment. This appears as darker brown patches and is one of the most common skin concerns we treat at Glowing by Leah.
It can develop after:
- Acne
- Spots
- Insect bites
- Burns
- Skin injuries
- Hormonal changes
- Excessive sun exposure
- Inflammation
Your skin has an incredible memory.
Even once the spot or injury has healed, the pigment can remain for months, or even years, without the right treatment.
Hypopigmentation
Hypopigmentation is the opposite. Instead of producing too much melanin, the skin produces too little. This creates lighter areas of skin which don’t tan normally. It can develop following injury, certain skin conditions or occasionally after procedures if healing hasn’t occurred as expected. Because the causes are completely different, hypopigmentation requires a very different treatment approach.
Melasma
Melasma is probably the most frustrating form of pigmentation because it isn’t caused by one thing. It’s heavily influenced by hormones, Pregnancy, The contraceptive pill, Menopause, Stress, Heat, Sun exposure and Genetics.
Melasma often appears across the cheeks, forehead, upper lip and jawline and usually affects both sides of the face equally. Unlike standard pigmentation, melasma sits deeper within the skin, making it much more stubborn to treat. That’s why professional diagnosis is so important.
Why does pigmentation get worse during summer?
This is the question I hear every single week. The answer is surprisingly simple. Your skin is trying to protect itself. Every time UV rays hit your skin, your melanocytes receive a signal to produce more melanin. For someone without pigmentation concerns, this may simply result in a tan. For someone with hyperpigmentation or melasma, those cells often overreact. Instead of producing a little pigment, they produce far too much. That’s why existing pigmentation becomes darker. It’s also why new pigmentation suddenly appears.
The frustrating part?
You don’t even have to be sunbathing, UV rays pass through clouds,they reach you through your car windows.They come through office windows.Even a quick walk to the shops exposes your skin.
And yes…You should still wear sunscreen during winter.
What about blue light?
This surprises almost everyone. Many of us spend eight or more hours every day looking at laptops, tablets and mobile phones. These devices emit blue light (HEV light).
Research suggests that prolonged blue light exposure may contribute to oxidative stress and can worsen pigmentation in susceptible skin types, particularly melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Is it as damaging as sunlight?
No. But when combined with UV exposure and everyday environmental stress, it becomes another reason to protect your skin every single day.
Sunscreen isn’t optional—it’s part of your pigmentation treatment
This is probably the biggest mistake I see. People spend hundreds of pounds treating pigmentation….then skip sunscreen.
Without daily SPF, pigmentation treatments simply have to work much harder. At Glowing by Leah, we recommend medical-grade sunscreens because they provide superior protection while supporting skin health backed by medical science and clinical studies.
We stock carefully selected SPF products from Mesoestetic, iS Clinical and AlumierMD, allowing us to choose the best formula for your individual skin with a brand new range in our clinic with specialised spf for patients who struggle with all of the above to help keep the melanocytes at bay.
Mineral sunscreens
Mineral sunscreens create a protective shield on the skin’s surface, reflecting UV rays away before they penetrate the skin.
They’re often ideal for:
- Sensitive skin
- Rosacea
- Post-treatment skin
- Clients recovering from advanced procedures
Chemical sunscreens
Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays before they damage your skin.They’re lightweight, comfortable under makeup and often preferred for everyday wear. Neither is “better.” The right sunscreen depends entirely on your skin, lifestyle and treatment plan. That’s why we tailor every recommendation to you.
How often should sunscreen be applied?
Once a day isn’t enough.
For the best protection you should:
- Apply SPF every 2-3 hours.
- Use two finger lengths of product for your face and neck and… HANDS.
- Reapply after swimming or sweating.
- Wear it 365 days a year, even during winter and even when working in front of a computer.
Your future skin will thank you.
Why a skin scan is so important
One of the biggest mistakes people make is assuming all pigmentation is the same.
It isn’t.
Before recommending any treatment, we perform an advanced skin scan during your consultation.
This allows us to assess what’s happening beneath the surface of your skin and determine exactly what type of pigmentation we’re treating.
Is it sun damage?
Is it melasma?
Is it post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation?
How deep is the pigment?
Are there underlying concerns affecting your skin barrier?
Once we understand your skin properly, we can create a treatment plan that actually works.
No guessing.
No wasting money.
Just evidence-based treatment tailored to your skin.
How we treat pigmentation at Glowing by Leah
Pigmentation isn’t treated with one magic treatment.
It requires a personalised plan.
Depending on your skin, this may include:
- Advanced skin analysis and skin scanning.
- Medical-grade skincare to suppress pigment production.
- Professional chemical peels to safely exfoliate and lift unwanted pigmentation.
- Medical-grade microneedling serums to brighten the skin while stimulating collagen.
- Skin boosters to improve hydration and skin quality.
- Laser Genesis to reduce inflammation and improve overall skin tone.
- Radio Frequency Microneedling to rejuvenate the skin while treating pigmentation concerns.
- IPL (Intense Pulsed Light), arriving this August, to target suitable pigmentation and sun damage.And we also now offer the famous cosmelan – the 6 month course to completely do away your pigment!
Every treatment we offer has been chosen because it delivers real, evidence-based results. Our goal isn’t simply to fade pigmentation. Its to restore healthy, resilient skin.
My promise to every patient
One of the most rewarding parts of my job isn’t seeing perfect before-and-after photographs.
It’s hearing someone say…
“I finally left the house without makeup.”
Or…
“I looked in the mirror and actually smiled.”
Skin affects so much more than our appearance. It affects our confidence. Our relationships. Our work. How we feel every single day.
That’s why I’m so passionate about treating skin health rather than simply chasing cosmetic results.
Ready to start your pigmentation journey?
If you’re tired of covering pigmentation with makeup…If you’ve tried products that haven’t worked…Or if you’re simply unsure where to begin…
We’re here to help.
Book your in-depth skin consultation today and let us discover what’s really causing your pigmentation. Together we’ll create a treatment plan that’s completely personalised to your skin, your lifestyle and your goals.
Book your consultation online today: https://www.glowingbyleah.co.uk
You can also explore our online shop, where you’ll find our carefully curated range of medical-grade skincare and professional sunscreens to support your skin at home. Because healthy skin isn’t created by chance. It’s created with knowledge, consistency and the right professional support.
